Views: 0 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 21-08-2025 Origin: Site
The concealed vertical rod exit device is a critical piece of hardware for commercial, industrial, and institutional buildings. Known for their clean, streamlined aesthetic and robust security, these "exit devices" are mandatory on many fire-rated egress doors. Unlike surface-mounted rim devices, the mechanics are hidden within the door, making installation a more complex process that requires precision.
Whether you're a seasoned locksmith, a facilities manager, or a confident DIYer tackling a project, this comprehensive guide will walk you through the entire process of installing a concealed vertical rod exit device, ensuring a secure, code-compliant, and functional result.
Before you begin, it's crucial to understand what you're working with. A concealed vertical rod device consists of a main latch body mortised into the door's edge. From this body, two vertical rods (or one for a top-rod-only model) extend through the door to activate latches at the top (and bottom) of the door. The entire mechanism is hidden inside a rout in the door, with only the touchpad or crossbar visible on the surface.
Why choose this exit device?
· Aesthetics: Offers a clean, uncluttered look.
· Security: Provides three points of locking (latch, top rod, bottom rod) for superior resistance to forced entry.
· Durability: Built to handle high-traffic environments.
· Code Compliance: Meets building and fire codes for required egress doors.
Proper preparation is 90% of a successful installation. Rushing this stage will lead to mistakes.
Essential Tools:
· Tape Measure
· Sharp Pencil or Awl
· Square
· Power Drill with assorted bits (including hole saws)
· Sharp Chisels and a Mallet
· Router with a straight bit (and template, if available)
· Screwdrivers (Flathead and Phillips)
· File
· Safety Glasses and Hearing Protection
Materials Needed:
· The concealed vertical rod exit device kit (ensure it's the correct hand for your door)
· Appropriate door preparation template (usually provided by the manufacturer)
· Mounting screws (typically included)
· Strike plates for the head and threshold (included)
· Lubricant (graphite or silicone-based)
Critical First Step: Door VerificationNot all doors can accept a concealed vertical rod device. You must confirm:
· Door Material: The door must be wood or hollow metal. Not all composite or fiberglass doors are prepped for this.
· Door Thickness: Typically requires a minimum 1-3/4" thick door.
· Prepped or Unprepped: Many hollow metal doors come "prepped" for specific manufacturers (like Corbin Russwin or Von Duprin). This means the main rout is already cut, saving you immense time. Identify the prep number (e.g., "86 Prep") and buy a device that matches it. For an un-prepped door, you are starting from scratch.
Warning: Always follow the specific instructions provided by your device's manufacturer (e.g., Allegion, ASSA ABLOY, Sargent). This guide is a general overview.
Step 1: Template ApplicationThis is the most crucial step for accuracy. The paper or metal template provided by the manufacturer is your blueprint.
· Hold the template securely on the face of the door in the correct location (usually centered on the stile).
· Use a square to ensure it is perfectly plumb. A template that is even slightly off-level will cause the rods to bind.
· Tape it down firmly. Use an awl to punch precise marks through the template for all drill points, screw holes, and the outline of the rout.
Step 2: Drilling the Bore Holes
· Using a hole saw, drill the large crossbore hole where indicated. This hole houses the pushbar mechanism.
· Drill the smaller latch bore hole in the edge of the door. This must align perfectly with the crossbore.
Step 3: Routing the Mortise
· Using a router, carefully cut out the main rectangular mortise for the device's body. If you have a template guide for your router, this process is much easier and more accurate.
· Pro Tip: Route in multiple shallow passes instead of one deep cut to prevent tear-out and reduce stress on your router bit.
· Use sharp chisels to clean up the corners and make the mortise walls perfectly square.
Step 4: Drilling for the Vertical Rods
· The template will have marks for the vertical rod pathways.
· Using a long, small-diameter drill bit (often 1/2" or 9/16"), carefully drill the holes for the top and bottom rods. Drill slowly and keep the drill perfectly plumb. These holes must be straight for the rods to move freely.
Step 5: Installing the Device Body
· Feed the top and bottom rods through their respective holes and attach them to the main latch mechanism as per the manufacturer's instructions.
· Carefully insert the entire assembly into the mortise you created.
· Secure the main body into the door using the provided screws. Do not overtighten.
Step 6: Installing the Actuator (Touchpad/Crossbar)
· Insert the pushbar or touchpad mechanism through the crossbore hole.
· It should engage neatly with the latch mechanism inside.
· Secure it with the appropriate screws from the outside.
Step 7: Installing the Strikes
· Close the door slowly and mark where the latch and rods make contact with the frame header and threshold.
· Mortise out the areas for the strike plates on the frame. The latch strike on the jamb and the rod strikes at the top and bottom must be perfectly aligned.
· Secure the strike plates with screws. Proper strike adjustment is key to smooth operation.
The job isn't done once the last screw is in. Testing and adjustment are mandatory.
1.Operate the Device: Press the bar repeatedly. The action should be smooth and positive. The latch should retract fully and spring back without hesitation.
2.Check for Binding: If the bar is hard to press or feels gritty, the rods are likely binding. This is often caused by misaligned rod holes or strikes. Carefully identify the friction point and adjust the strikes accordingly.
3.Lubricate: Apply a small amount of dry lubricant (graphite is best) to the rods and latch mechanism. Avoid oil-based lubricants as they attract dirt and grime.
4.Test Door Closure: The door should close and latch securely into all three points without requiring excessive force to open.
· Rods Don't Retract Fully: The strikes are misaligned, or the rod holes are not plumb.
· Latch Doesn't Catch: The latch strike is too deep or too shallow. Shim or deepen the mortise.
· Device Feels Loose: The main body screws may not be tight, or the mortise might be too large.
Installing a concealed vertical rod exit device is a project that demands patience, the right tools, and meticulous attention to detail. While it is more complex than installing a simple lockset, the result is a highly secure, reliable, and professional-grade door hardware system that is built to last for years. By following this guide and, most importantly, the manufacturer's instructions, you can ensure a successful installation that keeps people safe and your building secure.
For complex installations, doors with special fire ratings, or if you are ever in doubt, do not hesitate to contact a professional locksmith or door hardware consultant.
