Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 03-09-2025 Origin: Site
Removing a mortise lock can feel like solving a complex puzzle. Unlike standard cylindrical locks that sit neatly in a simple bore hole, mortise locks are substantial pieces of hardware embedded deep within a pocket—or "mortise"—cut into the edge of the door. Their robust design makes them a favorite for security and durability in commercial buildings and older homes, but it also makes them a bit more intimidating to disassemble.
Whether you are upgrading to a high-security ANSI Grade 1 mortise lock, replacing a faulty mechanism, or simply refinishing a vintage door, taking the lock out requires a specific sequence of steps. If you rush the process, you risk damaging the door’s woodwork or the lock mechanism itself.
In this guide, we will walk you through the entire removal process, from gathering the right tools to sliding the lock body out of the door. We will demystify the components—like the cylinder, faceplate, and spindle—so you can tackle this project with confidence. By the end, you’ll be ready to swap out your old hardware for a new, reliable system like those offered by Keyman Lock.
Before you start unscrewing hardware, it is essential to have the right tools on hand. Mortise locks are held in place by various set screws and fasteners that may require different types of drivers.
| Tool | Purpose |
| Phillips Head Screwdriver | Most mounting screws on modern locks use Phillips heads. |
| Flathead Screwdriver | Essential for removing the faceplate and often for the set screw holding the cylinder. |
| Allen Wrench (Hex Key) | Some lever handles are secured with hex screws. |
| Utility Knife | Useful for scoring paint around the faceplate to prevent chipping. |
| Pliers | Helpful for gripping the cylinder if it is difficult to unscrew by hand. |
| Flashlight | To see inside the mortise pocket or locate recessed screws. |
Having these items ready will save you from scrambling mid-project. Once you are equipped, you can begin the removal process.
The first step in removing a mortise lock is to take off the trim. This usually involves removing the doorknobs or levers and the spindle that connects them.
1.Locate the Set Screws: Look for small screws on the shank of the doorknob or lever. These are often located on the underside or side of the handle.
2.Loosen the Screws: Use the appropriate screwdriver or Allen wrench to loosen these screws. You don’t always need to remove them completely; just loosening them enough to break the grip on the spindle is often sufficient.
3.Remove the Handles: Once loosened, pull the handles off the spindle. If you have a threaded spindle (common in older locks), you may need to unscrew the knobs.
4.Slide Out the Spindle: With the handles removed, the metal bar (spindle) connecting them should slide right out. Set these parts aside safely.
The escutcheon plates (the decorative metal plates sitting flush against the door) cover the internal mechanism holes.
1.Find the Mounting Screws: These are typically visible on the interior side of the door.
2.Unscrew Carefully: Remove the screws holding the plates in place.
3.Pry Gently if Stuck: If the door has been painted multiple times, the plates might be stuck. Use a utility knife to score the paint around the edge of the plate, then gently pry it loose with a flathead screwdriver to avoid peeling the paint off the door.
This is often the trickiest part for beginners. The cylinder (where you insert the key) is actually threaded into the lock body and held in place by a long set screw.
1.Locate the Faceplate: Look at the edge of the door where the latch bolt is. You will see a long metal plate called the faceplate (or armor plate).
2.Remove the Faceplate: Unscrew the two screws (one at the top, one at the bottom) holding this plate to the edge of the door. Remove the plate to reveal the lock body underneath.
3.Find the Cylinder Set Screw: Look for a screw head located on the edge of the door, roughly in line with the center of the cylinder. It is often a flathead screw.
4.Loosen the Set Screw: Turn this screw counter-clockwise to loosen it. Do not remove it completely if you can avoid it; you just need to loosen the tension clamp holding the cylinder.
5.Unscrew the Cylinder: Insert your key partway into the cylinder to use as leverage, or use pliers (with a cloth to protect the finish). Rotate the entire cylinder counter-clockwise to unscrew it from the lock body.
With the trim, spindle, and cylinder removed, the main lock body is now free to be extracted from the door.
1.Locate Mounting Screws: There are typically two screws securing the lock body to the door edge—one at the top and one at the bottom of the mortise cavity.
2.Remove the Screws: Unscrew these completely.
3.Slide the Lock Out: Insert a screwdriver into the spindle hub (the hole where the spindle went) and gently leverage the lock body forward. Once you can grip the face of the lock, pull it straight out of the door edge.
If you are going through the trouble of removing an old lock, it is the perfect time to consider what you are putting back in. Not all locks are created equal. For commercial properties or high-traffic areas, upgrading to an ANSI Grade 1 Mortise Lock is a smart investment.
ANSI Grade 1 is the highest certification for security and durability, capable of withstanding over 1 million cycles. Manufacturers like Zhongshan Keyman Locks Products Ltd. specialize in these high-performance locks. Their M7 Series, for instance, meets strict ANSI/BHMA A156.13 standards and is UL 10C fire-rated for 3 hours.
| Feature | Benefit |
| Higher Security | Difficult to pick or force open due to the deadbolt integration. |
| Durability | Built to withstand heavy use in schools, hospitals, and offices. |
| Aesthetics | Offers a clean, classic look with a wide variety of trim options. |
| Versatility | Available in mechanical, solenoid, and motor-driven versions for modern access control. |
Even with a guide, things don't always go as planned. Here are solutions to common problems:
If the cylinder is stuck, it may be rusted or the clamp screw isn't loose enough.
· Solution: Double-check the set screw on the door edge. Apply a penetrating oil like WD-40 around the cylinder threads and let it sit for 15 minutes before trying again.
Over time, wood can swell, or paint can seal the lock body inside the mortise pocket.
· Solution: Re-insert the spindle and use it as a handle to wiggle the lock body up and down while pulling outward. Be gentle to avoid cracking the wood veneer.
Old screws are prone to stripping.
· Solution: Use a rubber band between the screwdriver tip and the screw head for extra grip. If that fails, you may need to use a screw extractor bit.
Removing a mortise lock requires patience and a systematic approach, but it is a manageable task for any DIY enthusiast or facility manager. By following these steps—removing the trim, extracting the cylinder, and sliding out the body—you can dismantle the lock without damaging your door.
Once the old hardware is out, you have the opportunity to enhance your security. Whether you need a robust mechanical lock or a modern electrified solution for access control, choosing a reputable manufacturer ensures your new lock will last for years. Explore the range of ANSI Grade 1 locks from Keyman Lock to find a replacement that offers both safety and style.
